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Domaine Fabien Coche, based in Meursault, works biodynamically and shows a very restrained approach to new oak. On around 12 hectares, partly with vines up to 80 years old, elegant, precise wines are produced — both white and red — that impress with freshness, fine structure and balance. Traditionally the estate plants 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, and is a recommendation for everyone seeking structure and precision in Burgundy.
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Domaine Fabien Coche, known at its founding in 1940 as Coche-Bizouard, produces outstanding whites as well as reds in the Côte de Beaune. With a total of 12 hectares focused on the Meursault appellation, this estate is a genuine gem. The domaine farms several lieux-dits here, such as Les Chevalières, Le Limozin, Les Luchets and Clos du Pré de Manche. There are also beautiful Premiers Crus such as Charmes, Goutte d’Or and a share of the sought-after Perrières in Fabien Coche’s range. Added to these are vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, Pommard, Auxey-Duresses and Monthelie.
What makes it so compelling is that Fabien Coche, with his uncompromising terroir philosophy, runs against the grain: he treasures and tends his red-wine parcels just as he does his white-wine sites, rather than swapping them for Chardonnay. For in Meursault too, particularly close to the boundary with Volnay, there are parcels predestined for Pinot Noir that yield expressive wines.
The shared name with the domaine of his second cousin Raphael Coche is, alongside the quality, the only thing that still links these two houses today. Early on, his father Alain Coche and son Fabien began organic farming. Since 2020 the domaine has also been officially certified. The 40 parcels — with some vines well over 50 years old — are tended meticulously, and only the best grape material reaches the cellar. Harvest is by hand and typically begins earlier than at most growers, in order to bring fine freshness to the wines. Ageing takes place predominantly in wood and can last up to 18 months.
Outstanding whites, intriguing reds — a range of expressive and individual wines.
Here is an overview of his wines:
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The wines are fine-meshed and multi-faceted, finely spiced, and stylistically clearly belong to the Meursault region. Through precise work in the vineyard and the cellar, Fabien, Magali and their team produce compelling wines in both white and red.
With the 2022 vintage Fabien and Magali Coche are, understandably, also very pleased. The weather played into the growers’ hands this year, delivering good quality at good volumes. The whites show very balanced, with good substance, fine fruit aromatics and just the right measure of acidity and tannin. In general the wines this year are slightly richer in tannin, which brings not only tension but also an excellent foundation for longevity.
But not only the whites — the reds of Domaine Fabien Coche have also caught our attention. And in 2022 in particular they show, alongside the spice and delicacy characteristic of Coche’s élevage style, a beautifully juicy fruit. Better not to choose between them and to lay both down in the cellar and enjoy.
In total the domaine farms 12 hectares, with a 50/50 split between red and white. The clear focus is Meursault, with some wines from the adjoining regions. Since 2005 Fabien has been in full charge of production. The domaine began organic farming as early as 1998 and has the good fortune to work with some very old vines.
Particularly important to Fabien is that terroir and the planted grape variety harmonise perfectly, and so the domaine also farms substantial red-wine surfaces in Meursault. The grape material tends to be harvested early to preserve freshness and elegance in the wine. Thanks to the low use of new oak and long ageing in barrel (up to 18 months), the wines drink very well from the first moment. At Fabien Coche, only hand-harvest is used, so that selection in the vineyard can be even more rigorous.
