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Riesling — for many the greatest white grape in the world. From a filigree Mosel Kabinett at 8% alcohol through the radiant Großes Gewächs of the Rheingau and Nahe, the elegant Grand Cru of Alsace, the mineral Smaragd of the Wachau and the bone-dry summits of Clare Valley, Riesling shows a range without equal. Egon Müller, Dönnhoff, Keller, Trimbach, Hirtzberger, Grosset — discover the iconic producers and find the Riesling for your occasion.
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Riesling is a white grape variety (Vitis vinifera) of German origin and, in the view of many critics, the most versatile and longest-lived noble white grape in the world. Worldwide planting covers around 50,000 hectares; of these, approximately 24,233 hectares (2024) lie in Germany, which corresponds to roughly 45 per cent of the worldwide Riesling area. The most important regions are, in Germany, the Pfalz (approx. 5,926 ha), Rheinhessen (5,438 ha), the Mosel (5,266 ha) and the Rheingau with the highest Riesling share of any German region (around 78% of the vineyard, approx. 2,412 ha). To these are added Alsace in France, the Wachau and Kamptal in Austria, as well as significant plantings in Australia (Clare Valley, Eden Valley), the USA (Finger Lakes, Washington State), New Zealand and Canada. Stylistically Riesling spans from radiantly dry Großes Gewächs through finely off-dry Kabinetts and Spätlesen to the nobly sweet Auslesen, Beerenauslesen, Trockenbeerenauslesen and Eiswein — scarcely any other grape traces its terroir and vintage as precisely.
Riesling is in all probability an indigenous variety of the German Rhine region, presumed to be a descendant of a wild Vitis vinifera sylvestris. The first written reference dates from March 1435: Count Johann IV of Katzenelnbogen had six “seczreben Riesslingen” recorded for his vineyard in his cellar inventory at Rüsselsheim, at a cost of 22 shillings. This is the earliest documented trace of the vine.
In Alsace, Riesling is documented in writing from 1477; 1628 is regarded as a secure planting year. The first ampelographic entry is owed to Hieronymus Bock (1498–1554), who described it in the Latin edition of his Kreütterbuch of 1552 as growing on “the Mosel, the Rhine and in the Worms region”.
Riesling owes its rise to the rank of noble grape to the 18th century: in 1716 the Fulda monks at Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau ordered replanting with pure Riesling. In 1787 the Elector and Archbishop of Trier issued an order to replace all inferior grape varieties in his domains with Riesling — a milestone that shaped the Mosel for centuries. In the 19th century, noble-sweet Rheingau and Mosel Riesling achieved higher prices at London auction than the first growths of Bordeaux and Champagne. The oldest surviving Riesling bottle comes from the Schloss Johannisberg cellar, vintage 1748.
Riesling is a late-ripening variety, which predestines it for cool-moderate climates where it can extend the vegetation period to October or even November. This late ripening is the foundation of the typical Riesling acid-fruit balance that makes the grape unmistakable worldwide. It is more frost-resistant than most noble grapes, while at the same time susceptible to powdery and downy mildew as well as botrytis — though in the case of fully ripe grapes the latter leads to the desired noble rot for the production of Auslesen, Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslesen.
Riesling loves steep, well-drained slopes with weathered mineral soils: Devonian slate on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer; quartzite and phyllite in the Mittelrhein; Taunus quartzite in the Rheingau; Buntsandstein and limestone in the Pfalz; loess loam and Rotliegend in Rheinhessen; slate, porphyry and volcanic rock on the Nahe (Dönnhoff’s legendary Hermannshöhle); primary rock and gneiss in the Wachau and Kamp.
Germany
Germany is the undisputed home of Riesling. The most important regions:
The German quality system distinguishes trocken/halbtrocken/feinherb across the tiers Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein. The VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) has additionally established a site-based classification system with Großes Gewächs (GG) for dry single-vineyard wines.
France – Alsace
In Alsace, Riesling is one of the four “noble grapes” (Edelzwicker varieties) and the sole grape of many Grand Cru sites. Dry-vinified, alcoholically a little fuller than its German counterparts, often with yellow fruit and pronounced minerality. References: Trimbach (Clos Sainte Hune, Cuvée Frédéric Emile), Hugel, Domaine Weinbach, Zind-Humbrecht, Schlumberger, Albert Mann.
Austria
In Austria, Riesling is the second most important white noble grape after Grüner Veltliner. Concentrated in the Wachau(Hirtzberger Singerriedel, F.X. Pichler Kellerberg, Knoll Schütt), Kamptal (Bründlmayer Heiligenstein, Schloss Gobelsburg Heiligenstein, Hirsch Gaisberg) and Kremstal. Stylistically dry, mineral, often with pronounced stone-fruit and more body than on the Mosel.
Other countries
Riesling is almost always vinified reductively and without oak, in order to preserve fruit and acidic interplay. Whole-cluster pressing, cool fermentation in stainless steel tank or in the traditional Stückfass (Mosel: 1,000-litre Fuderfass; Rheingau: half-Stückfass) at low temperatures. Spontaneous fermentation is standard at the top end, malolactic is suppressed. Noble-sweet Auslesen, BAs and TBAs come from selectively hand-picked berries infected with Botrytis cinerea; Eisweine from grapes harvested frozen on the vine at no less than minus 7°C.
Primary aromas of dry styles: lime, lemon, green apple, white peach, apricot, white flowers, sometimes herbs; with off-dry Mosel Spätlesen, honeydew melon, pear, mango. Secondary aromas from lees ageing: bread, almonds, chalky minerality. Tertiary aromas of mature Riesling: the characteristic petrol note (TDN – trimethyldihydronaphthalene), honey, kerosene, beeswax, dried apricot, black tea. Acid structure very high (often 7–10 g/l), alcohol between 7% (Mosel feinherb Kabinett) and 13.5% (Wachau Smaragd, Pfalz GG) depending on the style.
Few white wines age like Riesling. Mosel Kabinetts often show their true depth only after five to ten years; GGs from the Rheingau, Nahe and Pfalz develop over ten to thirty years; Spätlesen, Auslesen and noble-sweet versions can age for five decades and more. The oldest drinkable Schloss Johannisberger Rieslings come from the 18th century. Mature Clare Valley and Eden Valley Rieslings also age outstandingly well.
Among the internationally most highly rated producers are, in Germany, Egon Müller (Scharzhofberger TBA as the most expensive white wine in the world), Joh. Jos. Prüm, Dönnhoff, Keller, Wittmann, Robert Weil, Markus Molitor, Fritz Haag, Müller-Catoir, Schäfer-Fröhlich, Emrich-Schönleber, van Volxem; in Alsace Trimbach (Clos Sainte Hune), Domaine Weinbach, Zind-Humbrecht; in Austria Hirtzberger, F.X. Pichler, Bründlmayer, Schloss Gobelsburg; in Australia Grosset (Polish Hill); in the USA Hermann J. Wiemer.
With its acidic backbone, Riesling is one of the finest food partners. Dry styles suit asparagus, fish (trout, char, pike), sushi, sashimi, roast pork, Wiener Schnitzel and Asian cuisines (Thai, Vietnamese, lightly spiced curries). Off-dry Kabinetts and Spätlesen are ideal partners for Indian food, spicy Asian cuisine, Riesling risotto and mature alpine cheese. Noble-sweet Auslesen and Beerenauslesen harmonise with foie gras, blue cheeses (Roquefort, Stilton), crème brûlée and apricot tartlets; TBAs and Eisweine are dessert wines in their own right.
No other white wine combines ageing power, terroir fidelity and stylistic range like Riesling. From the 7% Mosel Kabinett to the Schloss Johannisberger drinkable for two centuries, from the radiant Großes Gewächs of the Rheingau to the noble-sweet Saar TBA — Riesling is the living proof that white wine belongs in the same league as the greatest red wines in the world. For many critics (Hugh Johnson, Stuart Pigott, Jancis Robinson) it remains the greatest white grape of all.
What are Riesling’s parents?
The exact descent of Riesling is not conclusively established. Genetic investigations point to a relationship with Heunisch (Gouais Blanc) and a wild Vitis vinifera sylvestrisfrom the German Rhine region, supplemented by a Traminer-related line. The variety is considered autochthonously German; the first written reference dates from 1435.
Where is Riesling mainly grown?
Germany is by far the largest growing country with around 24,233 hectares (2024) and accounts for around 45% of the worldwide Riesling area. The most important regions are Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Mosel, Rheingau and Nahe. Significant Riesling plantings are also found in French Alsace, in the Wachau and Kamptal in Austria, in Australia (Clare Valley, Eden Valley) and in the USA (Washington State, Finger Lakes).
How does Riesling taste?
Riesling shows lime, lemon, green apple, white peach, apricot and floral notes; mature examples develop the characteristic petrol note, honey and beeswax. Acidity is very high, the aromatic range extends from bone-dry (Großes Gewächs, Wachau Smaragd, Clare Valley) through off-dry (Kabinett, Spätlese) to nobly sweet (Auslese, Beerenauslese, TBA, Eiswein).
Which dishes pair with Riesling?
Dry Riesling harmonises with asparagus, fish, sushi, roast pork, Wiener Schnitzel and Asian cuisine. Off-dry styles are ideal partners for spicy curries and mature alpine cheese. Noble-sweet Auslesen pair with foie gras, blue cheese and desserts with yellow fruit.
What is a Großes Gewächs (GG)?
The Großes Gewächs is the highest tier of dry single-vineyard wines in the classification system of the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter). It functionally corresponds to a Grand Cru: dry-vinified, from a classified single vineyard, with strict yield and ripeness rules. For Riesling, the GG is the reference for the German top sites.
What is the petrol note in Riesling?
The petrol note is a classic maturity marker of Riesling and emerges from the aroma compound TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene). It recalls kerosene or candle wax and appears especially in ripe, sun-exposed vintages or after extended bottle storage. In wine criticism it is regarded as a positive marker of authentic Riesling maturity.
How long can you cellar Riesling?
Riesling is one of the longest-lived white wines in the world. Good Kabinetts age five to fifteen years, Spätlesen and GGs ten to thirty years, noble-sweet Auslesen, Beerenauslesen, TBAs and Eisweine fifty years and more. Schloss Johannisberger Rieslings from the 18th century are documented.
What distinguishes Mosel Riesling from Rheingau Riesling?
Both consist of 100% Riesling but differ markedly in style: Mosel Riesling grows on Devonian slate, is lighter (often under 10% alcohol at Kabinett level), filigree, with electrifying acidity and an off-dry creamy residual sweetness. Rheingau Riesling grows on Taunus quartzite and loess loam, is more powerful, more classic, more frequently vinified dry and fuller-bodied.
