September 2026
91 A classic, mature Bordeaux nose, exactly as we know and love the 1990 vintage: soft leather, a hint of dark earth, forest floor. On the palate the tannins are noticeable yet velvety, giving the wine a fine structure. The mid-palate could almost show a touch more density, and the finish is of medium length – yet the wine stays wonderfully juicy, and every sip makes you look forward to the next. Half an hour in the decanter did it good: with some air it became sweeter and the leathery notes receded. We used the Durand to open the bottle, as the cork was slightly damp – though without any sign of leakage – and it came out in one piece. Anyone looking for density, dark cassis, fruit and power won't find it in this wine. But if you appreciate classic, mature Bordeaux, you will be very happy with it – and at a price that is a pleasure in itself. And when did you last see 12.5% alcohol on a Bordeaux label? That alone is a delight. For us, clearly a "Trust us!" wine.
